What I learned about travel during the pandemic
I haven’t written for a while. I was all ready to start telling you about my proposed trip to Italy and Greece, the excitement of booking everything and the places I was going to visit. Some were new, others I had revisited and of course, no trip is complete without a week in Mykonos. My post sits sadly in my draft box just waiting…
As soon as we booked and paid for all of our accommodation, we started hearing whispers about a deadly virus sweeping China. At first, we thought, no way, we will be fine we won’t cancel our trip, its too early, we will wait until Greek Easter (April) and then we will make a call. Well, the call was made for us, the Australian government wouldn’t let anyone travel from March 23rd, our trip was gone. I was shattered, to say the least. Apart from the obvious, feeling for the people and families immediately affected by this, we were feeling stunned.
I guess as humans we learn, we adapt, we grow.
I have learned a lot of lessons during this time, but as this is a travel blog, I will only share my travel learnings.
Book your airfares with a travel agent - It may cost you a little bit more but in events like these, it’s always good to have someone else that will represent you correctly. I have heard many situations where different providers have been asking for exorbitant amounts for changes or cancellations. Our travel agent advised us what are our best options (cancel) and for a small airline cancellation fee, we got our airfare money back immediately.
Book directly with hotels - Book directly with the hotels. Do your homework of where you want to stay, figure out your location, accommodation type, and book with them directly. Third-party providers take 30% from the accommodation and some don’t pay the hotels until the day you are to check-in, so if you paid months prior they hold that money. I would strongly suggest you have confirmation of what the hotel’s cancellation policy is also.
After this whole situation, I would not be booking with third-party providers, like Expedia. The accommodation we have booked through them has been the hardest to get vouchers or credits for. The small business operators are the ones suffering.
Travel Insurance - I never travel without travel insurance, and although no-one foresees a pandemic, it’s always safer to have protection. I am sure that insurance companies will change their policies to reflect the pandemic.
Booking tours/museums/galleries - I would be booking most extra activities, as close to the dates you are to do them as possible. While canceling airfares and accommodation has been arduous, imagine trying to get refunds from galleries and restaurants.
There is always next year - Like I said earlier, these are unprecedented times so, for now, we go with the flow and we wait for next year and better times.
I haven’t canceled my accommodation as such, I have only postponed it til next year so I guess I have something to look forward to and hope that things will go back to some normality and I can enjoy my trip!
Take care and stay safe
Greek Beach Clubs
What do you think when you think of Beach Clubs? Do you think Nammos? Do you think Mykonos?
Even though Mykonos is renowned for its beach club culture, you will find beach clubs everywhere on most islands and mainland Greece. They are sections of the beach with sunbeds, beach umbrellas, cabanas and day beds. You pay for your spot and enjoy the day.
We were lucky enough this trip to go to a number of beach clubs, enjoy our club sandwiches and laze the day away!
The famous turquoise and white striped umbrellas at Nammos, Mykonos
Nammos in Psarou beach is the queen of them all! Food, alcohol, beautiful service staff, famous clientele and pumping music have attracted party goers for a number of years. This is THE place to see and be seen… Sun, crystal clear beach, champagne, cigars, Dior beach bags, designer bikinis and Camilla kaftans are everywhere.
Some shopping at Nammos village, Mykonos
And when you get tired of all the above, you can stroll through the manicured gardens of the exquisite Nammos village for some exclusive and amazing shopping. Dior, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Burberry are all here along with jewellery stores, beauty treatment rooms, cafes.
Two sunbed and an umbrella will set you back (from) €150.
The cool design of Ftelia Beach Club, Mykonos
Further to the north of Mykonos is the picturesque Ftelia beach and there you will find Ftelia beach club. Being an interior designer, I love checking the design of different places and Ftelia has a unique feel and colour palette from most beach clubs I have visited, a retro/mid-century aesthetic which I love! Design and aesthetic aside, it is a lot more quieter than most beach clubs with a relaxed chilled vibe, great music and scenery.
The shopping here consists of a vintage Kombi van selling handmade jewellery! Goes so well with the mood of this place
Two sunbeds and an umbrella will set you back €50.
Shopping Ftelia beach style, Mykonos
Halkidiki is in north of mainland Greece, a very popular destination for locals and tourists a like. In one of the towns called Pefkohori, we visited Elephant beach club. A boho/jungle themed beach club right on this most pretty coast line full of pine trees (Pefko - pines hori- village). We got there early so we had prime position right on the beach. Cool music, a lot more locals were enjoying this beach club and again a very chilled vibe. We could go around the many areas of this beach club and have a drink or food, there were many cool places to sit. The beach here was amazing.
Two sunbeds and an umbrella were €40 redeemable on food and drink.
The crystal clear waters at Tortuga, Naxos
Tortuga Beach Bar and Restaurant in Naxos was a pleasant surprise. It has a bit of a boho-meets-Mexico vibe what with some amazing cactus and weathered timber structures. The music was great and the beach was spectacular. Great aesthetic and service makes for good times.
The cabanas for two started at €30 for back row going up to €50 for the front row.
The restaurant at Tortuga, Naxos. A perfect spot to get out of the sun!
Pool or Beach, you can do both at Santanna, Mykonos
Another very popular beach club in Mykonos is SantAnna in Paraga. It has a big saltwater pool, shops, restaurant and bar. It has day beds, cabana sunbeds, pool pillows, it has everything! Catering to a young, hip crowd, this place has a great atmosphere. The staff were very friendly, explained the facilities and showed us around.
The prices vary here based on where and how you want to spend your day. There is sunbed/cabana hire prices and a day here can cost you up to €150 for cabanas. We were there high season and there was also a minimum spend. Strongly recommend you prebook online.
It is a requirement that every beach in Greece has a section for the general public which is free. So if you just want to grab a towel, some sunblock and a bottle of water, you can enjoy some of the most amazing beach in the world, for free!
Thessaloniki Travel Diary
Beautiful details in some of the buildings in Thessaloniki
The Kastro of Thessaloniki
The city of Thessaloniki from above
The famous umbrellas of Thessaloniki in Paralia
Morning strolls seeing the White Tower (Lefkos Pyrgos)
Piping hot koulourgia and pites
Alexander the Great, the loving Hero of Thessaloniki
Agia Sofia’s Byzantine architecture
The candles of Agios Demetrios
The unique architecture of Agios Demetrios
The old and new in Thessaloniki
Plateia Aristolous
Smack in the heart of Thessaloniki is the Electra Palace Hotel
MamaLuca is a cool restaurant that modernises traditional Greek cuisine
The ladadika district was originally full of Oil merchants, now a thriving food district
Historical visit of Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki from above
We had four full days in Thessaloniki and we wanted to do a lot of things and in the midst of all that we wanted to spend quality time with family.
With a day spent visiting family in the villages, a day spent visiting more family in Thessaloniki, a day sneaking a beach visit to Pefkohori in Chalkidiki, it left us one day to do a few touristy things in town.
After breakfast, we headed off for a short stroll to the White Tower. A tower so full of tragedy and triumph, the beacon of Thessaloniki. There, they have an interactive exhibit of the history and culture of this beautiful city.
The White Tower of Thessaloniki
Further down along the paralia you will see statue of Alexander the Great. Thessaloniki, was named after the half-sister of Alexander the Great, the hero of the city.
From there, you have to go to see the beautiful art installation of the umbrellas… simply gorgeous and if you go during sunset even better!
The umbrellas have become such a popular site for Thessaloniki
Our touristy day took us next to Agia Sofia. One of the oldest churches in Greece, built in its current structure in the 8th century and is based on the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. Spiritually, artistically and culturally, an amazing church to visit with historical icons, frescos and mosaics adorning its walls.
The simplicity of the outside belies the beautiful icons, mosaics and frescos inside Agia Sofia, Thessaloniki
We continued our walk to another great church (we did more than visit churches I promise!), the church of Agios Demetrios, patron saint of Thessaloniki. Agios Demetrios was a Christian martyr who died at the hands of the Romans. He is revered as a military saint on horseback, credited with many miraculous interventions protecting Thessaloniki. The first church believed to have been built on this site in the 4th century AD, replacing Roman Bath where Agio Demetrios’ body is said to have been dropped, after his execution. The church has gone through many transformations since originally constructed.
The unique architecture of Agios Demetrios, Thessaloniki
Okay enough with the churches for now!!!
We wanted to see the whole city from above, at which point we caught a taxi and went to the Kastra (castle). These Byzantine Walls were built in the late 4th century to protect the town, its churches and timber-framed houses from sieges. The walls stood there until the 19th century when the Ottomans demolished large sections. From here you can enjoy the most panoramic views over the city.
Thessaloniki from above, at the Kastro
As it was still lunch time (3pm is lunch time in the Mediterranean countries), we couldn’t find a cab for the trip back and we decided to walk down, in the heat – not a good idea!
Pit stop to the arch of Galerius (or Kamara) and the Rotunda. Two very impressive neighbouring structures commissioned by Roman Emperor Galerius in the 4th century. The Rotunda has been a Roman monument, Christian church, Mosque and now a historical building, UNESCO heritage site, it is the oldest church in Thessaloniki and there are claims it is the oldest Christian church in the world.
The old and the new, the Arch of Galerius (Kamara) next to the ‘70 apartments
Almost to our hotel, we stopped for a much-needed frappe and bougatsa!
Although we spent a full day walking (24,000 steps!), we literally just skimmed the surface of this culturally rich & complex city.
The narrow streets of Thessaloniki
Where we stayed
Where we ate
Ladadika disctrict – Loved the food Necroponte, traditional Greek cuisine) and Mamalouka for more modern Greek cuisine.
Important tip
Wear comfortable shoes as you will be doing a lot of walking. And you must try the bougatsa, flaky filled filo pastry, whether sweet or savoury, it is amazing!
Five things to do in Athens
Athens is more than a stop-over, I repeat, Athens is more than a stop-over to the Greek islands!
If you haven’t gathered already, I love Athens! I try to combine time in Athens as well as time at other destinations in Greece.
Hop-on/Hop-off Bus Tours
I wanted to take my hubby on one of these as I did it with my daughter last year, and really enjoyed the view from above. You get the chance to hop off at about 14 stops within Athens, all the main attractions like the Parthenon, the Syntagma, Monastiraki as well as other lesser know but just as important like the Cyclades Museum, Benaki museum all the while listening to a guide on your headphones. It is all day everyday and you can start yours at any of the key attractions around the city.
Starting our bus tour here at Syntagma
Dinner at Psyri
Just off Monastiraki there is a little suburb called Psyri. It has a real hipster vibe, a little grungy and very cool. There are many vintage shops, the odd barber shop, great street art on the buildings, heaps of beautifully fitted out bars and many, many restaurants serving food not just Greek but from many different cultures. We ate at Lithos and would gladly go back just to have their moussaka!
The famous umbrellas outside Little Kook
One of the hip bars at Psyri
O Kostas
It doesn’t get more simple than this. Slightly cooked pita bread, barbequed pork souvlaki with just paprika and salt, strained Greek yoghurt, onion, tomato and parsley. No more no less. A tradition that has been going for 65 years all out of a hole in the wall souvlaki joint, and it is amazing! You will happy wait with the queue of people for your turn and sit on the side street and enjoy every mouthful! You can thank me later!
the picture of Kostas looking on as people wait for their souvlaki
Rooftop Bar – Anglais Athens
Imagine enjoying a Mojito, on a balmy summers evening, on a roof-top, watching the sunset, overlooking one of the oldest and most famous monuments in the world, the Parthenon! That’s what you will get right here, at Anglais Athens, a bit Palm-Springy in décor with a great cocktail list, makes for a really great start to the evening!
Anglais rooftop looking away from the Acropolis
The Archeological Excavation beneath the Acropolis
An ancient Athenian neighbourhood has been excavated and to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Acropolis Museum, it is now open to the public. A whole village preserved in time, it houses life and human activity from the 4th century BC. Streets, houses, courtyards, baths, workshops, plumbing even toilets comprise the finds.
Your entry ticket (10 Euros) for the Acropolis Museum (one of my favourites in the world!) allows you the entry to the excavations.
Highlights
All of the above - can’t choose.
Worth watching the behind-the-scenes of the excavation video at the Acropolis museums. Won’t spoil the ending but what they did to get it to this stage is amazing. Take the time to view it!
Important Tip
The Hop On/Hop Off bus has other extended tours like the Athens Riviera that take to Piraeus and Vouliagmeni, well worth going on. For the city only session its 20 euros for 24 hours in peak season.
Greece 2019 - Our accommodation
This year like other years, I like to do my annual pilgrimage to Greece.
There are three certains every Greek holiday – Athens, Thessaloniki, Mykonos. These three are not negotiable.
Athens, not as a stopover to other places. Athens because of its vibrancy, its colour, its history, its vibe. Thessaloniki, because of I was born there, I have family there and because I feel like I go home. So rich in culture and history. Mykonos, because its Mykonos! My happy place, my Disneyland, my fun spot. I love Mykonos…
In Athens we love staying in Kolonaki. It’s within walking distance to all the main attractions and you get the chance feel like a local. Our accommodation here is Coco-Mat. Great location, flawless interiors and a roof top to enjoy the most beautiful view of Athens.
Our accommodation in Thessaloniki is the Electra Palace, it’s right in Aristotelous Square in the heart of city. Apart from the great location, the staff are wonderful and so accomodating.
We have stayed at a number of amazing places in Mykonos in the past and this year we decided to mix it up a bit. We start our stay at the Rocabella Mykonos. This hotel is located at Agios Stephanos, about 7km from Mykonos town. Going out of my comfort zone of Platys Gialos checking out a different part of the island (for 3 nights anyway!)
For the rest of the stay in Mykonos, we go back to Platys Gialos. I really loved our stay at Thalassa Boutique Hotel last year and look forward to ending my trip with a stay there, right on my favourite beach.
image via 18grapes Naxos
And now for the places we haven’t been before, places we are going for the first time.
This year the “new” spots are Halkidiki, Naxos & Folegandros.
Halkidiki will only be a quick stop, and technically not a “new” spot for me, because when I was young and lived in Greece, Halkidiki was where we spent our summers. You see my mum and dads village (Efkarpia & Mavrothalassa, Serres) is less than 40kms away.
Naxos was really my husbands choice. I was happy to go back to Paros. But we have been to Paros (love Paros!) a number of times and thought lets see Naxos which is so close anyway.
We chose to stay at 18 Grapes which is an all-suite boutique hotel very close to Agios Prokopios beach, which is a beautiful stretch of beach.
image via bluesands Folegandros
Folegandros is one of those islands we have recently started hearing a little about. A couple of friends who have been there and they have come back with glowing feedback. Its landscape looks so unique almost untouched. I am really looking forward to our stay here!
Our accommodation here is Blue Sands Luxury Hotel with the beautiful Agali beach right in front of our hotel. I am looking forward to exploring this beautiful island.
image via bluesands Folegandros
Join our trip both here and on Instagram in the coming days.
Thessaloniki – Electra Palace
Athens – Cocomat Athens
Naxos – 18 Grapes
Folegandros – Blue Sands Luxury Hotel
Mykonos – Rocabella Mykonos
Mykonos – Thalassa Boutique Hotel
Food guide - Naousa Paros
Where to eat in Naousa, Paros
Having visited Naousa, Paros in the past, I never considered it a foodie hub. There is no reason why it shouldn’t be - with so much fresh produce, fish and amazing wine - but it was never at the top of my mind. But the last time we stayed here, for our Greek holidays in summer of 2018, the manager of our hotel, Mr & Mrs White, gave us a list of places to try. And boy, it was a good list - the man knows his food! Forget the beaches, now I want to go to Naoussa just to eat!
Image via Statheros
The first place he said we MUST try was Statheros Restaurant. Located just off the seafront in the narrow streets of Naousa, the food is mainly authentic Greek share food (meze) and it's amazing! The friendly owner, watched on lovingly by her Papou (grandpa), told us the must-have food of the day and we just went along and enjoyed every morsel. We had keftedes with tzatziki, roughly cut, crispy potatoes, dakos salad with home-made myzithra (a type of Greek cheese), the cod with skordalia (potato and garlic dip) and it was all so so good. The piece-de-resistance was the saganaki of prawns (compliments of the house), with a hint of chilli and abundance of lemon juice - I could just eat that all day every day. Please take the time to find this hidden gem, it is so worth it!
Stuffed eggplant with onion & feta
The next place recommended to us was Kafenio, in Palia Agora (old shops) Naousa. You will easily find this tiny restaurant because of the queue waiting for a table. But it is definitely well worth the wait! Without even realising it, everything we ordered was either vegetarian or vegan and was out of this world! We ordered kolokithokeftedes (zucchini fritters), stuffed eggplant, dolmades, chickpea casserole and, of course, a horiatiki salad (Greek salad). The food kept on coming and I was in foodie heaven.
The meze at Yemeni
Other honourable mentions are of course Barbarossa right on the water, with its fabulous views! Yemeni Taverna, which has great moussaka.
There are a plethora of places to eat in Naousa, some with beach views others with views of the little side streets, all you need to know is that the food is fresh, in most cases local and the people are so inviting.
Our beautiful suite at Mr & Mrs White
Where we stayed
Mr & Mrs White, a brisk 15-minute walk into Naoussa town. We stayed in the two-floor residence, a stylish space with your laid-back Cycladic minimal interiors. This chic hotel offers two pool areas, a great buffet breakfast and wonderful staff.
Highlights
The food! In amongst all the shops and hidden in little lanes, some of the tastiest, freshest food I have ever eaten!
Important tip
There is a great local winery called Moraitis just on the outskirts of Naousa that has been making wine since 1910. It's well worth popping in and sampling their wines but if you don't get a chance, many restaurants and tavernas around town offer it on their menus.
My happy place - Platys Gialos
Platys Gialos
Do you have a favourite place on earth? A place that warms your heart at mere mention? A place where you feel happiest and truly relaxed? For me, that place is Platys Gialos. No trip to Greece is complete for me without a stay at my ‘happy place.’
How clear is the beach
Located just four kilometres from Mykonos Town, Platys Gialos feels like another world from the hustle and bustle of one of Greece’s most popular islands. It’s definitely a lot more serene and quiet – with a clean shore, pristine beach and plenty of time for sunbaking, swimming, eating and relaxing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Mykonos Town, it sometimes can get a bit too much even for me! Platys Gialos is the perfect balance.
Beautiful cactus grown everywhere
Situated on the south side of the island, the half-moon shaped bay is easily accessible by bus, taxi and boats. It’s walking distance to the cosmopolitan Psarou beach with its famous Nammos beach club on the right and the hip Paraga (pronounced Pa-ra-nga) beach, home to San Giorgio hotel on the left. Both walks are beautiful along the coastline. It has the longest stretch of beach on the island. Beautiful golden sand and the most inviting warm waters make it a joy to spend the day doing nothing but sunbaking and swimming. The beach is well organised with sunbeds – there is a charge for them unless you are staying at the hotel which they belong to.
This is as hectic as Platys Gialos gets
Fabulous restaurants line the foreshore, with food for all tastes and budgets.
A favourite of ours is Yialo-Yialo. Their menu is a great blend of Greek and modern Mediterranean cuisines, they are open all day and you are treated like a long lost friend!
There is a mini-mart that sells just about everything you need, and a couple of little shops in Platys Gialos but for your proper shopping, I would keep it for Mykonos town. Of course there are also the friendly beach vendors selling knock-off designer bags and kaftans on the beach if that is what you like.
Where we stay
There are some amazing hotels along the beach. Our favourite is Thalassa Boutique Hotel and Suites. The fact that this hotel is literally right on the beach is a winner for me. The staff are also very accommodating, the rooms beautifully styled and the views are second to none.
Enjoying the view of Platys Gialos
We stay in the junior suite with sea views. The room is huge and stylishly designed reflecting the minimal Greek Island interiors. It also has a gorgeous day bed for extra seating and a balcony opening to spectacular views of Platys Gialos - the ideal spot to enjoy a bottle of wine and watch the yachts sail by. The bathroom is large with all the mod cons and a separate shower and toilet.
The fabulous pool with the most awesome view
The hotel has a great breakfast that has all the traditional dishes like pita, bougatsa, yoghurt and honey, even dolmades, along with more common choices of fruit, eggs and bacon.
As a more budget-conscious option, I highly recommend Mina Studios. Mina and her family are your wonderful hosts and their hospitality is so warming. Mina’s is about 100 metres from the foreshore, right next to the bus stop and so close to everything. The rooms are spacious and recently elegantly renovated. We stayed a night there and were so pleasantly surprised with what we got considering how affordable it is. Apart from the wonderful rooms, Mina’s husband met us at the port to take us to our rooms and we also enjoyed a freshly cooked homely breakfast. After travelling for a number of weeks, Mina and her family made us feel so welcomed.
Highlights:
At Platys Gialos you get the best of both worlds. It’s a quick 10 minute bus trip to Mykonos Town where all the shops, bars and cafes are if you want the be where the action is, and if you want a more relaxed location you can stay close by and still enjoy good bars and restaurants.
I also have to say the kayki trip around the surrounding beaches is a highlight. One of my favourite things to do is “beach hop” one these beautiful restored boats.
Important Tip:
Use the bus to get into town. It’s cheap, reliable and you don’t have to worry about parking in town - because there is none! There is a bus every half hour to Fabrika (Mykonos town bus depot) and back, and the buses run into the early hours of the morning. Also the bus trip is an adventure in itself!
From our balcony at Thalassa boutique hotel
Three Days in Milos
Everytime we come to Greece we like to visit at least one island we haven’t been to before. This trip, we both wanted to see Milos.
Milos, the quintessential Greek island, with its white-washed houses, bluest of blue waters, unique beaches, quaint fishing towns, hospitable people, great food. Everything you want and more from an Aegean Island. We had three full days and so much to see and do!
Just of the ferry in Adamas
Day one
We chose to base ourselves in Pollonia, a small fishing town on the northeast tip of Milos. (Plaka is the capital of Milos and Adamas is the main port). We were pleasantly surprised with what awaited us when we arrived in Pollonia. Everything was so close - the tavernas, the family-friendly beach with its golden sand, the small boats taking you to Kimolos and beyond. Good choice for a quiet few days
Sarakinikos beach has to be seen to be believed
First stop, Sarakiniko beach. You feel like you have landed on the moon when you arrive at this unique beach. The waves and winds over the centuries have created this stunning white rock formation. Set against the bluest skies, this beach has to be seen to be believed. Truly a spectacular sight! Explore this beach by walking around and make sure you have your camera ready for heaps of great photo
More from the amazing Sarakinikos beach
After a swim and some sunbaking at Sarakiniko beach, it’s back to our beautiful suite at Delmar in Pollonia to freshen up and go watch the sunset at Plaka. Plaka is so pretty - little shops and tavernas adorning the tiny streets. We had a great meal at a little tavern called Diporti (which in Greek translates to two doors). The baked feta cheese, the gigantes (giant baked beans) and zucchini chips were our favourites - so simple yet so delicious. And the sunset was spectacular!
a beautiful sunsets in Milos
Day one went by so quickly!
Day two
On our second day in Milos we decided to explore the unique fishing villages of Klima and Mandrakia. It is so worth making the time to see these charming villages, for their authenticity and peacefulness. The fishermen’s houses that store the fishing boats are carved into the rocks and are mere centimetres from the crystal-clear waters. Colourful doors distinguish these boat garages, each distinct and equally charming. These classic cottages are known as ‘syrmata’ and the ‘boat garage’ is typically located on the ground floor and the fisherman’s family living upstairs.
How close is the water to the houses at Mandrakia
Mandrakia is located on the Northern side of Milos, Klima on the Gulf of Milos not too far from Tripiti. I recently noticed that a few of these houses are now available to book as alternative accommodation options!
the peaceful, yet colourful Klima
We managed a swim at Firopotamos, close to Mandrakia and lunch at Plaka, close to Klima.
For dinner we stayed in Pollonia and enjoyed the beautiful seafood at Gialos, a seafood tavern right on the beach.
Day three
As we were limited with time in Milos, we opted to do a yachting tour around island. It was truly one of the most beautiful trips I have ever done. We left Pollonia mid morning. The yachts or catamarans take small groups of around 15-20 people and you have many stops along the way, where can enjoy so much of Milos’s unspoilt beauty.
First stop was the mineral-rich island Kimolos, a mere kilometre away from Milos. A refreshing swim and back on the boat for more exploring. Next stop was Thiorichia, emerald green waters and rich turmeric pebbles coloured by sulfur from the mines right on the beach. You feel like you stepped back in time with old offices, machinery and tools left there from the 1960s, when the mine ceased operating.
the idle offices and machine at Thiorichia beach, Milos
Our primary destination was Kleftiko, the impressive rock formation that can only be reached by sea. These amazing coves set in limestone rocks have a rich nautical history - pirates used to hide their treasures there.
the captivating beauty of Kleftiko
Kleftiko is truly breathtaking. Our yacht stopped there for a while, we swam, ate and explored the area. We even hopped in a smaller boat, which took us in and around the caves. I would highly recommend this for anyone visiting Milos.
As we sailed back to Pollonia we watched the sun set and were even joined by a duo of dolphins that kept trying to race the boat. It was a truly magical day!
On the day we were leaving, we had to try a bakery that was so highly recommended to us the previous day called Kivotos tis Gepsesis (boat of taste) in Pollonia. It’s specialty is watermelon pita! Golden buttery flaky pastry and dried watermelon, I know it sounds a little strange but it was insanely tasty.
the beautiful bougainvillea at the entry of Delmar suites in Pollonia, Milos
Where we stayed:
Delmar Apartments & Suites, Pollonia. Right in the town, we had the most beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom suite. Beautiful appointed rooms with all the mod-cons, with a lovely balcony overlooking the town. Highly recommend it, along with the wonderful staff.
the balcony to our suite at Delmar suites, Pollonia, Milos
Highlights:
The whole stay was a highlight. From the yacht trip, to Sarakiniko, to Plaka and everything in between. Go and visit this beautiful island of Milos as soon as you can!
Important Tip:
If you go on a yacht tour, try to book in advance and if possible go on a day where it is quite still and not windy. The day we sailed we couldn’t go to the remote and amazing beach of Tsigardo, because of the wind. A good excuse for me to visit Milos soon!
Tips for first time travellers to Greece
If you’ve never been to Greece and are planning a greek holiday here are some tips that I think you will find useful:
Cash is King
Greece’s currency is the Euro. When travelling, I convert a few hundred dollars to Euros before I get to Greece - that way I don’t need to rush to an ATM as soon as I arrive.
Speaking of ATMS, there are ATMs everywhere in Greece, so no need to worry about being able to get cash out.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in most restaurants, hotels and stores on the islands and in the main cities, smaller family run tavernas, little kiosks (periptera), markets and smaller villages don’t have credit card facilities. So it’s wise to have cash with you at all times.
Safety in Greece
Greece on the whole is very safe and the people very friendly. However, there are some neighbourhoods in Athens such as Omonia where I prefer to travel in a group. Like many other busy European cities, the only crime I would be cautious about is pick-pockets, especially crowded and public places. Just be mindful of your wallet and personal belongings and never carry too much cash on you - that’s what hotel safes are for!
There is beauty everywhere
There is more to Greece than the Greek Islands
While most people associate Greece with the Greek Islands, there are so many more beautiful places to see. Mainland Greece offers plenty of ancient ruins and antiquities, beautiful monasteries and mystical rock formations. Not to mention the lush green country side and unique towns along the coast. It would such a shame to miss seeing it all!
Island hopping
In saying that, there are so many beautiful islands in Greece and travelling between them is easy with the ferries. The ferries are plentiful and generally reliable, especially over the summer months. You can book your tickets from the many travel agencies around the ports.
If you are on a strict time schedule, I suggest you book your tickets early from home and allow at least a day for your departure.
Don’t worry about diets when you’re on your Greek holiday
Eat & drink like a local
I would strongly suggest staying at independent hotels rather than big international chains as well as opting out of all-inclusive meal packages. The food in Greece is so fresh, plentiful and so well priced, you really need to sample a variety of it! Get off the main street and find the tavernas filled with the locals - and let them order for you.
Best way to travel around the Greek Islands
Yiasou or Yiamas
Although everyone speaks fluent English and you will not have any problem communicating in Greece, it’s always nice to learn a bit of the language. (Actually, without sounding too much like the dad from My Big Fat Greek Wedding, you already do - the Oxford Dictionary say 150,000 words derive from Greek). Two words you should learn are Yiasou (or formal/plural Yiasas), which means hello and goodbye, and Yiamas, which means cheers. They will love you!
Beachwear
Even though Greeks are religious people, the beaches (especially on some islands) are famous for bikini-tops being optional, that applies to all ages and all sizes. On that note, I love that on Greek beaches most women wear bikinis - which is so refreshing to see lack of self-consciousness and positive body image.
Don’t try to see too much
I totally understand, there is so much to see and do in Greece but do like the locals though and take it easy. If you try to see five island in 10 days, you will spend a lot of your time on ferries and not on land! Try to see two to three islands in 10 days and enjoy the experience. If you want to see many islands in less time, it’s probably better to go on a cruise. There are also many day trips and catamaran tours if short on time.
Free WiFi
Most cafes, bars, restaurants, tavernas, hotels - practically everywhere you go - there is free and fast WiFi, so be sure to ask for that magical password. I had a situation at a taverna recently where my phone picked up the Wifi from when I was there three years ago!
No need for high heels
I know, I know, I have been guilty of this! You are going to Mykonos and want to dress up for a night on the town. But believe me when I say this to you, you will not wear them! You do so much walking on narrow cobblestone streets, that only sneakers, slides and flat sandals will do.
Pack light
Again I need to practise what I preach! You don’t need heavy clothes in Greece and/or very formal clothes. And you most definitely don’t need to pack a lot. You will get tired of dragging over-stuffed suitcases on and off ferries and through paved streets.
If you are travelling in summer, your bathers/bikinis/boardies, some light summer clothes, flat shoes, sneakers and a cross body bag (can’t stress this enough!) will do. It’s a good idea to pack a light cardigan for the evenings when staying on the islands as it can get a bit cool . If you missed packing something, remember there are shops everywhere - good excuse to buy some beautiful new things!
Alcohol and Greeks
Greeks have a real healthy attitude to alcohol, especially wine. You drink with your meal, in moderation and not to get drunk. The legal drinking age is 18 and 16 under supervision but no one really monitors this. While there are bars and nightclubs everywhere, you rarely see Greeks drunk and public displays of drunkenness are generally frowned upon.
Buy local
One of my favourite things to do in Greece is shop. No matter if you’re on a touristy island or in a small village, you will find jewellery makers, potters, cobblers and artisans whose families have been involved in their respective craft for generations. By the end of a trip to Greece, my suitcase is always filled with little knick-knacks (bibela) to take home with me to remind me of a place, a person, a conversation.
I love supporting these local traders, as there are not many places left in the world that still do this. Visiting a local store is also a great way to start a conversation, as Greeks take pride in their work and love showing it to you! The same applies to galleries and museums, with many of the souvenirs locally made.
You’re on Greek time
You will quickly realise that there is no sense of urgency in Greece - you are now officially on ‘Greek time.’ This means super late dinners, long coffee breaks and the famous afternoon siesta. I guess if you can’t beat them you can have fun joining them.
The most important tip I have for you is to enjoy! Enjoy Greece and everything that it has to offer you.
Kefalonia
Kefalonia isn’t the first Ionian Island I have visited. In 2016, on the way to the seaside town of Parga, we stopped by Lefkada for the day. I was so amazed by the crystal clear, turquoise blue waters of its beaches and I knew I wanted to see more of these lesser known islands on the west side of Greece.
On this trip, we decided to spend a few days at Kefalonia. I didn’t know much about Kefalonia apart from Captain Corelli’s Mandolin - the book and movie based there in World War Two.
We based ourselves in the capital of Argostoli, hired a car and spent the whole time driving to beautiful beaches and pretty towns. Kefalonia is one of Greece’s biggest islands, so I can’t recommend hiring a car enough.
While I have swum at many beaches, I have to say the THE most beautiful beach I have ever seen is Myrtos Beach. The whitest tiny pebbles make the water so blue, it is beyond words. It literally looked photoshopped. The drive to Myrtos was interesting to say the least - we drove through very windy, mountainous rounds and along the way we saw so many goats laying on the road. It was wonderful.
We were there late June, so the tourist season hadn’t really kicked in yet. It was a great time to be there as it was still very warm and the water was beautiful but we could enjoy the beach without fighting for a spot to sit.
Not far from Myrtos is a gorgeous fishing village called Assos. All pastel-coloured buildings and pretty boats on a little harbour - so picturesque. Assos has been dubbed an “Instagram famous” towns because of its charm and I can see why.
About 40km out from Argostoli is Xi Beach. With white cliffs and red sand, Xi beach is unique to say the least! A popular tourist destination, this is a well organised resort area with sun beds and umbrellas for hire along with many accommodation options. Although we drove here, we opted to return to Argostoli on the ferry for something a bit different!
Another highlight for me was visiting the Monastery of Saint Gerasimos, the patron saint of the island. I had the opportunity of going to a Sunday morning service which was quite a spiritual experience.
Kefalonia has many beaches and pretty towns. While we stayed for five days, we could have easily stayed for another five and still not have seen everything. Most beaches are well organised with food, sunbeds and umbrellas. There are various accommodations options to suit most budgets and tastes. The food was so tasty and fresh again with numerous tavernas and cafes. I can see why so many people recommended Kefalonia for us to visit!
WHERE WE STAYED:
Kefalonia Grand Hotel, Argostoli - Loved the interiors of this hotel, all soft linens, greys and white, as an interior designer its inspiring. It was very close to everything in town, but the best thing about the hotel was its amazing staff - they went out of their way to make sure we were happy. Oh and the breakfast was pretty amazing as well!
HIGHLIGHT:
Without a shadow of a doubt - Myrtos Beach. I could have gone back again and again and again. That water is beyond anything I have seen.
IMPORTANT TIP:
Make sure you book a car, Kefalonia is big and you really need to drive to be able to enjoy it!
Why Greece?
WHY GREECE?
I get asked this so many times. Why Greece? Why do I go to Greece so often? What’s so special about Greece?
And then I get started…
THE PEOPLE
Φιλοξενία (filoxenia) translates to friend a stranger. But for Greeks it holds a far greater cultural significance. The generous practice of welcoming and looking after strangers, originates back to Ancient Greece. Zeus, king of the Gods on Mount Olympus was also know as Zeus Xenios, the patron of hospitality and guests, avenger of wrongs done to guests. To the Ancient Greeks, hospitality was a high-ranking virtue.
So I guess the kind-heartedness and the warm welcoming you receive is in the Greek DNA.
THE HISTORY
As you come into Athens, there perched high above the city is the Parthenon. It is quite overwhelming seeing it for the first time. Looking over Athens like a protective beacon it holds so much history. It has seen so many wars, occupations, fires, destructions and peace. So many people - ancient politicians, playwrights and philosophers - have made history on the majestic marble and limestone steps. In modern times, the world’s biggest dictators, movie stars, fashion designers and peacekeepers have followed in their footsteps.
But there is so much more to Greece than just the Parthenon. Everywhere you go you, everywhere you look there is history.
To the north, you will find the beautiful city of Thessaloniki, which for several centuries was the second-most important city of the Byzantium. In Thessaloniki and its outskirts there are 15 monuments that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Here you will find many notable Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Jewish structures, showcasing what a cultural melting pot this great city was - and to some extent - still is.
To the south you will find Delphi, the site of the the mystical oracle (Pythia) who, in ancient times, was consulted about all the most important decisions. Who to marry, who to battle, who to vote for - everyone went to Delphi. It is why it was called the ‘navel’ (centre) of the universe.
A three hour drive south through the Greek countryside and you will find Olympia - the birthplace of the Olympic Games. You too can run through the arena, which dates back to 776BC.
Two hours east and you will reach the site of the Ancient Mycenae, which was once ruled by the famed King Agamemnon, made famous by Homer’s Iliad. There, you can admire the Lion’s Gate - the only known monument from the Bronze Age of Greece. Perched upon a hill which seems eerily out-of-place, one can only imagine what life would have been like in 1600BC.
While all these places are definitely worth a visit - you will find ruins and antiquities in almost every town and every city in Greece.
THE WEATHER
Athens has 350 days of sunshine per year. Yes, you read right - 350! It means only 15 days of rain. Imagine - a whole summer of beautiful weather. Hard to believe when you live in Melbourne!
When I think of Greece’s weather, I think of balmy evenings sitting outside a family-run tavern eating fried zucchini and sipping rosè, or laying on a sunbed by the sea. I never have to worry about the summer weather in Greece, or the Mediterranean as a whole, because it’s always amazing.
THE ISLANDS
There are 6000 islands in Greece, of which 227 are inhabited. These islands are amongst the most picturesque and unique in the world - they are world renowned for their beauty.
On the west side of Greece you have the Ionian Islands - Corfu (Kerkyra), Zakynthos, Kefalonia, Lefkada, Ithaki, Paxos (Paxi), Kythira (although a lot further down) are known as the Eptanisa (Seven Islands).
The waters here are the most crystal-clear, turquoise blue I have ever seen. Along with the lush vegetation, colourful buildings and fresh produce, these islands are the perfect holiday destination. There are many more smaller islands in the Ionian like Antipaxi, Othoni and Meganisi - these are growing to become more popular with tourists as well.
On the east side of Greece you have the Aegean Islands - the deep blue seas juxtaposed against the whitewashed, sugar-cube houses make these islands famous around the world.
The Aegean Islands comprise of seven groups: the North Aegean, the West Aegean, the Sporades (of Mama Mia fame), the Cyclades (Mykonos and Santorini to name the most famous), the Saronic (Hydra - one of my faves), the Dodecanese Islands (Rhodes), and Crete.
Both the Ionian and Aegean offer their own beautiful landscape.
THE FOOD
You cannot think of Greece without thinking of the food. This is the homeland of the souvlaki, dolmades, tzatziki, feta, yoghurt and honey, Kalamata olives, taramosalata. Frappè instead of latte. Dinner at midnight. Breakfast comprising of cakes and pastries - bougatsa and tiropita to name my favourites. Where you’re likely to find spanakopita and koulouria on the menus of the finest restaurants and sold on the side of the street. Greece is where the streets smell of oregano and lemon, roast isn’t reserved for Sunday and there are zaharoplastias (sweet shops) on every corner. Produce is picked from the back garden and the calamari, the octopus and the fresh fish come straight off the boat.
HOME
I can’t describe the feeling I have when my plane lands in Greece. I hear everyone speaking Greek, the yiayia’s (grandmothers) cooing over their grandchildren, kids running through the airport, the priests in flowing robes chatting by the baggage carousel. I feel like home. I feel my parents, my grandparents, my family, my roots, my history. I feel Greek. Although I have lived in Australia for over 45 years as soon as I arrive in Greece I feel come home.
I could easily list another 20 reasons I visit Greece but what fun would that be - you need to discover Greece for yourself!